Transplanting Moss




The critical elements here are a clear, bare, compacted surface that is free of leaves, weeds, and other debris. The soil surface should be gently scratched with a rake to slightly roughen the soil area (dug into slightly for Haircap moss to compensate for attached soil). Following a spray treatment for pH adjustment, the soil should be made damp, and the moss itself should be pressed out flat. Moss-Tac is recommended for transplanting.

The area should then be thoroughly SOAKED and the dry moss should be pressed very firmly into the soil (a heavy roller filled with water works best for large areas). All of our moss products should then be misted with water. (Try to do transplanting on a cloudy or rainy day if possible). WHEN YOUR MOSS ARRIVES, PLEASE BE SURE TO KEEP IT OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT AND AS COOL AS POSSIBLE. If moss gets too hot while packaged, it may not live, as it could begin to mold or rot..

Care for moss following transplanting

Another critical element for long-term success is keeping leaves and debris from accumulating on the moss (this can kill the moss underneath). There are several ways to achieve this:

  • A leaf blower. These can be noisy and polluting, but in addition to clearing leaves that fall on existing moss, they can be very helpful for initially clearing large areas where moss is to be established (raking to bare soil will obviously achieve the same goal).
  • A broom. A light touch is required here, as care must be taken not to peel back the moss.
  • One-quarter-inch mesh netting.

Available through Moss Acres, the transplant netting is perhaps the best all around solution. This limp, reusable netting is UV stable, virtually invisible, and is excellent for catching falling leaves, and for protecting newly established moss from birds and rodents that like to pull up moss in search of insects, grubs and worms. This material can also perform the dual roll of functioning as a deer or bird barrier for ornamental shrubs, ground covers, or berry bushes.

High heeled shoes, repeated heavy foot traffic, and running children do not bode well for moss. Light foot traffic with flat-soled shoes is fine. Dry moss is much more likely to "scuff" or peel up, so regular watering or misting not only keeps moss a lustrous green, but also significantly minimizes damage from pedestrian traffic or from birds.

The most important thing to remember following transplanting is to mist the moss regularly for the first week, or as needed depending on climate, site and weather conditions. Misting in the morning or in the evening is best for moss, but never during extremely hot or sunny times of the day.  Watering moss gardens in hot weather is an invitation to fungal development and is not recommended - it is actually better to let the moss dry out than to over water. If you put the moss in the right place after the first week its best to simply let mother nature take over, it responds much better. It may dry out and not look great at times, but when the rain comes, the lush green returns. Don't baby your moss sometimes neglect is just what it needs! For shade mosses, Just make sure your site is in a shady location- no more than 1 hour of sun a day. If you purchased Sun Tolerant Moss it can safely be placed in a part to full sun area.  Note: Haircap Moss may appear dried out and shriveled upon receipt of delivery. A thorough watering will restore the plants to there normal appearance in just a few minutes!



• Select a location.
• Clear the area of all leaves, debris and weeds.
• Feel free to scratch and loosen the substrate, being careful to keep it smooth and flat.

Cover area where you intend on placing the fragments in a visible layer. Once the mixture is down, wet the area so that the Milkshake will become sticky (be careful not to wash it away).  Once you are done with the area you then mist the entire area. Once again do NOT soak the moss, too much water is not good for it.

Keeping the area moist for the first few weeks following inoculation is critical. Do this by using the mister setting on your hose or a mister system until the moss becomes established. Never overwater or let water stand on the mosses. It is important NOT to water in extreme temperatures, especially temperatures over 80 degrees. Watering in the early morning or late evening is best; when the mosses come out of dormancy.

Your moss fragments will remain a mixture of green and brown for several weeks. As the moss acclimates you will see more and more green fronds (shoots). Moss fragments should begin to green and cover thinly in about 3 to 6 months. Moss will begin to thicken and become a solid green carpet within about 12 to 18 months.

Remember, growing moss takes PATIENCE!

If you have any questions or concerns with your moss after its arrival it is best to email with pictures if applicable, we will respond right away, if email is not possible please call 570.253.4704 option 2